Friday, 12 February 2010

South Island

Meirion wrestles control of the keyboard and writes:

Someone said that history is written by the victors, and I’m sure that’s true and terribly clever, but it seems that travel blogs are (usually) written by the person who’s not doing all the proper work, like driving campervans, brewing hot, malty drinks or making sure that the towel is weighed down neatly and securely on the beach while the glamorous half of the operation swims with seals and such.

So yeah, anyway, what I’m trying to say is someone needs to tell the other half of this blog. I had a look at what Chrissy wrote in the last two episodes, and while I admit that I had an editorial role and am happy to take credit for any amusing bits, there are some pretty glaring omissions in her account.

So, yes, it’s true that we went to the Catlins and yes, the wind truly did blow harder than a hard, blowy thing. But so much more happened than that. For example, her title’s reference to the Catlins as “Deliverance country” was taken from a sign at a place we stopped called the Lost Gypsy Gallery in a tiny one-mule town called Papatowai. Inside a tiny caravan, an inventive genius who must have inherited the DNA of Heath Robinson had created all kinds of solar-powered automata that gave us (and any others who had the good fortune to stop in search of toilets or whatever)hours of amusement. Of course, you really need to visit to see how much fun it is and we tried to insert a little video of Chrissy playing a bizarre organ but you'll have to come to our place in the summer to see our slide show because it won't upload.

Loads of people describe the Catlins as “remote” as if there’s anywhere in New Zealand that is “central”, but the truth is it’s bloomin’ gorgeous (like most of the country) and if someone would simply sort out that wind issue they have down there, it’d be teeming with tourists. Curio Bay, where we stayed for one deafeningly blowy night, has dolphins, penguins, sea lions, surfing and stuff. It even has a petrified forest (as seen in one photo) instead of conventional rocks as part of the coastline/ seafloor. This has something to do with the trees being preserved in volcanic ash but I’m sure that Wikipedia can fill in the rest of the details.

In case Chrissy forgot to mention the Moeraki Boulders in her previous blog, they are the spherical rocks stranded on the beach in another pic. Crazy geologists would love to brainwash us with fanciful stories of tidal erosion or some such nonsense, but any fool can see that they are clearly the ancient, fossilized remains of passenger pods from alien spacecraft.

And the simple explanation for why the aliens left so quickly can be seen not far away on the south coast: they visited Invercargill!

So, from Invercargill - a town that looks even worse in the sunshine because you can see it so much more clearly – we went west through yet more stunning Alpine countryside to Fiordland. We decided to stop in Manapouri (on the shores of the lake of the same name) and not even the hordes of savagely hungry sandflies could detract from the beauty of the place. We wanted to visit one of the fiords and the lovely old American lady who ran a lovely old campsite advised us against an all-day kayak trip, persuading us to do an overnight trip to Doubtful Sound instead. Having taken one look at our scrawny yet portly bodies, she had decided that the half hour of kayaking on the fiord included in the overnight trip would be plenty.

She was so right. As a non-swimmer I frantically paddled, trying to stay afloat (forgetting that frantic actions are the enemy of flotation) occasionally glancing across at Chrissy who, tormented by flies intent on sucking her blood, had given up rowing and was adrift, mid-fiord, swatting at insects, some real but even more imaginary. As it turned out, my fear of water outweighed my fear of air-borne parasites and the huge gouges that had been gnawed from my ankles only became apparent when we returned to the safety of the” mothership”.

Fortunately, it was not only the sandflies that feasted well that day. The real attraction of the trip was not the kayaking or the beautiful scenery (see the photo); the trip was sold to us the moment Chrissy heard camp-site lady mention the words “roast beef” and “salmon”. After a few days of eating carrots and tomatoes from the back of our campervan, any trip involving a three-course meal appealed to us like rumours of gold attracted settlers to Otago in the nineteenth century. In fact, if she had offered us a bungee-jump into an open sewer, we would have snapped it up if there had been nice food at the end of it.

On from the fjords to Queenstown (briefly). Every tourist in New Zealand else goes there so we did too. For half an hour. After days of tranquillity, arriving in a place full of cars just felt wrong, so we headed up the road to Arrowtown (an old gold-mining town where buildings of the community formed by Chinese labourers still stand). More importantly (for us at least), it has a cinema where you can watch a movie from the comfort of the battered old armchairs and sofas that accommodate a maximum audience of fifty. Just what you need when it’s raining.


Wanaka was next, and it’s one of the loveliest places in the world. We parked our van outside the house where Chrissy’s lovely friend Sarah lives with her lovely friends and their regular (and usually lovely) couch-surfing visitors. The sun was out, the lake sparkled, the mountains loomed, the tramping was beautiful and the wineries let us taste their wares. What more could we ask? The pictures are of a stunning tramp (i.e.walk) that we took to see Rob Roy Glacier and of a plane-trip that Chrissy and Sarah went on to see Milford Sound from above.


From there, we drove to the west coast, stopping briefly at a lakeside layby where we bumped (by random) into someone riding a tandem that Chrissy had been to Uni with. Oh, and the tandem bit is true; I didn’t add it just to rhyme with random. The plan was to walk on a glacier, so that’s what we did, spending a few hours crunching around on crampons on Fox Glacier. That explains the photo where we are surrounded by ice.

By this point we were running out of van hire time, so even though the west coast was stunningly green and picturesque, we headed towards Arthur’s Pass (one of the routes through the hills back east). We tramped up a mountain called Avalanche that nearly killed us; in retrospect perhaps we should have paid more attention to the name. The peak was home to a trio of keas (intelligent and “playful” alpine parrots that are famous for pestering humans) who seemed to have calculated that hungry walkers reached the top with their sarnies, apples and muesli bars every lunchtime. Unfortunately their intelligence doesn’t extend to an awareness that what is food to humans is poison to them. We managed not to let them pinch any of our grub, and it was nice not to poison the cheeky little beggars, but it was even nicer to fill our rumbling bellies.

Then to Christchurch where we did city stuff (like a brilliant Joanna Newsome gig) before returning to North Island.

Sunday, 17 January 2010

Catlins: Deliverance country

New Zealanders know a lot about weather. I thought we had that covered pretty well, but no. They KNOW weather. Apparently, as we're told frequenty, we're suffering the knock-on effects of El Nino here, which means cloud cover and rain for forseeable. Much like British summer.

We've spent a few lovely days in the Catlins, which seems to assume almost legendary proportions amongst any New Zealanders we spoke to along the way, probably because it's pretty remote and some section of the roads are unsealed. The highlight has to be Curio Bay, where we saw a petrified forest, some wee penguins and two rotund sea lions and some amazing bay views. Photos to come when technology blesses me again.

Stuck for an hour in Invercargill for resupplying. It's Milton Keynes, but bigger.

Monday, 11 January 2010

Four seasons in one day



Wandering in transit around Sydney Airport after a long haul from Heathrow (to be closed a few days later... thank you for my passage, weathergods!), I was buoyant to see Mei appear, looking as tanned as a Welsh boy can be. Brief reunion enjoyed by both, but the joy was acorn-sized in comparison to the oak tree of excitement when Mei said “There’s someone famous behind you.” Looked around to see Martin Johnson – hero to all English rugby fans but arch-enemy of the likes of Mei - also in transit with us. Tried to get surreptitious photo to send to Hello! but Johnson’s brow furrowed in a menacing way. Photo untaken.

A couple of flights later and after numerous comparisons of arm colour that confirmed I was a few tones bluer than milk, we arrived in Wellington. Fantastic Christmas hosted by the Spicer clan in the warmth of summer. If I felt any initial bemusement by the lack of snow, trees and general rigmarole of British Christmas, this was soon dispelled by a gert big three-meat Christmas spread and the regular appearance of the sun.

From here, we went en masse with handfuls of Spicers, Attenboroughs, and a Waesenbach, down to Kaiteriteri, in the Abel Tasman National Park. Even the photos taken on my pink Argos camera manage to capture how beautiful this area is. Most of the park is only accessible by foot or boat, hence on our walks we had our pick of pristine white beaches with turquoise waters and next to no-one there. Another afternoon we went horseriding along the beach, mentored by the wise words of the guide,Harmony (that’s him - far left- on the phone, dispensing some advice to another punter). New Year was seen in with my bro and my sis (a first since the days when we were too young to know better, I think?!) watching Fat Freddy do his Drop in nearby Riwaka. Good drunken revelry.

There’s a lot of water in New Zealand, so we had lots of fun on boats here, and back in Picton, where we began our venture as a duo. We went on a dolphin watching expedition with a 98% success rate. Suffice it to say we were in the 2% of failures. The sales pitch that day was that orcas (“killer whales”) had been spotted that morning. What they didn’t tell us until we were already on board was that if we didn’t see the orcas, then we’d see no dolphins cos the killers scare them all off. A consolation prize was that we did see king shags (stop sniggering at the back!) which, according to the skipper, are some of the rarest birds in the world (or New Zealand, or somewhere). To us they just looked like big seagulls, but maybe some ornithologist somewhere will be impressed when we tell them. Despite a lack of sea mammals, the boat trip gave us beautiful views of the Marlborough Sounds, a visit to an island bird sanctuary where we saw little blue penguins nesting and plenty of sunburn.

A bus took us down the East coast to Kaikoura, where I got back in the water, encased in wetsuit, to swim with seals. They are brilliant! Really inquisitive. The guide told the swimmers to mimic what the seal pups were doing, as they like to interact with you, so I did try to duck and dive, but....if they look rotund and beached on land, they move like the dickens in water! I really loved this morning trip though and got really burnt on my face. Again.

From here we spent a couple of aimless but pleasant days in the garden city of Christchurch before picking up our hideous transport, which garners us plenty of tutting and narrowing of eyes from more well-heeled campers. If you can’t quite read the sign, know that it’s part of the Wicked ‘philosophy’, which seems to be plastered all over (and inside) the van. Still, it’s cheap and relatively cheerful, and has powered us slowly to the Banks Peninsula, where we’ve spent a brilliant and varied few days, stopping at an old friend of Mei’s for the night in Little River.

Nuff blathering. We’re southward bound now and it’s raining, much like a British summer. Four seasons in one day and all that.

xx

Sunday, 13 December 2009

About to set off


I'm all set to join Mei in Sydney in less than a week. All set, in the sense that it's going to happen. All set, in the sense I have a bag and a passport.